Cabo Verde: Hiking the Calabaceira

 Our time in Cabo Verde was drawing to a close, and we had one more adventure to complete. Bu Country Tours had engaged a driver and a local guide to take us on a trek down the Calabaceira valley to Cidade Velha - the original Portuguese settlement on the island.

Leaving the city, we drove to a small cliff-top settlement overlooking a lush, green valley and clambered down a rocky trail to some small farms at the trailhead.



We passed abandoned buildings from the earliest settlement and active farms where valley residents grew bananas, mangos and other fruit and raised livestock. 



Tramping along on the dusty stone, we enjoyed views of beautiful trees and deep blue sky, and spotted a brave Grey Headed Kingfisher who obligingly posed for my camera.




Halfway along our trek we came to an enormous baobab tree, its trunks woven together to create a cave-like space large enough to fit all of us. I had read that Charles Darwin visited this very tree on his travels to Cabo Verde in 1832, at the very beginning of his journey on the The Beagle. Not sure if this is the right tree, but still a wondrous site for its sheer size.



After enjoying some water and snapping several photos, we continued in the hot sun, passing some larger farms, until we reached the edges of Cidade Velha, a UNESCO World Heritage Site as the oldest settlement on the island.



We passed the ruins of a stone church - the oldest colonial building in sub-Saharan Africa - that was built between 1470 and 1500. Seeking some context, we looked up what else was happening at that time. England was in the midst of the War of the Roses and back at home, where they were as yet untroubled by Europeans, the Great League of Peace and Power was established by the Haudenosaunee (1450).


We carried on through ruins of the earliest buildings into the part of Cidade Velha that is still inhabited.


Famous Rua de Banana is said to be the oldest surviving street in sub-Saharan Africa.


Nossa Senhora do Rosario, a church built in 1495, still stands and remains active. I lit a candle and sat in the quiet sanctuary for a few moments to enjoy the stillness, thinking about centuries of the faithful who have gathered in this space.



Wandering toward the water, we stopped to browse the wares of local crafters and artisans, ending at the pillory that stands as a stark reminder of the slave trade.


We settled on a shaded patio to enjoy a cold drink, watching the fishermen and sea birds.



Then reconvening with our driver, we travelled up the steep hills overlooking the town to the fortress that protected Cidade Velha from French pirates and took in the view of the valley we had traversed that morning.



Returning to Praia, we enjoyed a late lunch, following it up with some delicious gelato. My time in Africa is running out, so I made the most of my opportunity to try unique flavours, enjoying baobab fruit - known locally as calabaceira - and bissap. 




























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