Seeing the ocean without dipping my toes in it was getting to me, so we decided that a beach trip was in order. The waves were too strong for swimming, so we took a hired car to the Plage de Fann - a beach area set aside for fitness that is within walking distance to one of Dakar's most famous markets.
Along the drive we spotted an open area along the sea where some enterprising young men had set up a space for "le foot" - or football, what we North Americans refer to as soccer. Two small boulders created the goal on one side, with two discarded tires set on end to create the second, and a game was underway on the sand. A little farther along, some boys were kicking a ball back and forth on cracked pavement. Make no mistake - Dakar loves their football. During the game the night before, we'd heard the entire neighbourhood cheering and horns blowing whenever the national team had scored!
When we passed the Soumbédione market, we knew we were getting closer and mentally tallied the distance to our starting point to make sure it was going to be manageable on foot.
Disembarking from the car and heading from a parking area to the expanse of sand, we came across four local boys around the age of 10 who were just leaving the beach. They were very excited to greet us and give us each a hive five.
Settling onto some rocks, we prepared ourselves with sunscreen and took turns minding our things while the other waded in the water and captured the waves in photos.
Gathering our things, we wandered on wet sand and ankle-deep waves along the length of the beach, occasionally surprised by water surging over our knees, to a rocky outcropping where we sat to enjoy the view together.
As I was taking photos, a local man who had climbed out onto the rocks called to me to bring my camera and indicated that he wanted to show me something in a tidal pool. I clambered up and made my way over the sharp rock wall to a smoother expanse of stone to join him by the water. He climbed into the pool and pried some mollusk shells off of the rocks. He instructed that they could be pried open and eaten, but after snapping a couple photos I told him I preferred to return them to the sea. We tossed them back into the water together.
Once our feet had dried enough to put our shoes back on, my daughter and I began our stroll toward the market. This road between central Dakar and the Almadies had been built since 2018 and was in remarkably good shape compared to other roads in the city. We enjoyed views of the sea over diverse plantings, birds varying in size from sparrows to doves and hooded crows scratching in struggling gardens to find seeds, and came across an unexplained concrete maze that I just had to try.
As we drew closer to the market we began to catch sight of fishermen on the water and passed the rickety Magic Land amusement park.
The market was relatively quiet, though we spotted a minivan offloading a group of tourists and a woman exploring with a guide on a private tour. Most of the vendors were in conversation with each other or had retreated into the shade of their market stalls.
Spotting us, everyone was very eager to land a sale, encouraging us into their shops to browse and promising to give us a "very good price" once we decided what we liked best. Being Canadian, we are both very uncomfortable with haggling but it is necessary to ensure that you get a good price while still being fair to the vendors.
After looking over some carved wooden animals in two shops we came across a stall displaying an array of fabrics and textile crafts.
After selecting a gift for my husband, I tried a couple pairs of pants in bright fabrics that were too small and then too big. The vendor then pulled out a dress that I had been eyeing and encouraged me to try it on. She helped fit it over top of my clothing and demonstrated different ways to wear the sleeves. When she shared the price, my daughter nodded to me that it was quite fair. No haggling required!
Once I agreed on the purchase price, the dress was whisked away to have the hem altered by a man with a sewing machine in the next stall and the vendeuse selected a bandeau in a similar colour to present as a gift alongside my purchases.
Our next stop was a stall filled with glass paintings. Up popped the same man from an earlier stall who declared this to be his shop and reminded us that he had friends in Montreal and would give us a "very good price" as the "first customers of the day - very good luck!" I had one in mind but wanted to look around at the other stalls first. We came across several other stalls with baskets, carvings and other crafted items and came to a mask seller.
After we examined some masks which he offered to us for what seemed a reasonable price, we decided to keep looking through the market, but on stepping out of his stall we spotted some small replicas of
Mali granary doors. Seeing that these had caught our eye he carried them into the shop and encouraged us to choose one to take home. Torn between two designs, we left to wander the stalls and discuss a what we thought might be a fair price. Returning, we told him that they were too big for my carryon where I would want to keep them safe when travelling home and he offered to go to his father's stall to get some smaller items. After some time - while we browsed his masks - he returned with three. My daughter and I each spotted one we liked, and he offered them to us for ten times what he was charging for the masks. The carving was more intricate and the item a little bigger, but this was too big a jump in price. My daugher commenced bargaining, which involved some dramatics - kneeling to bow over my hands and promise he loved his mother and offered a good "mama price", and later exclaiming that his father would "kill" him over the price he offered. When my daughter confirmed the final price - 4 times what he offered for the masks - he pled with her to be silent so that others wouldn't know how generous he was being.
At this point, newly purchased miniture doors in hand and too exhausted to try another round of haggling, we left the market with plans to return another day.
I wanted to get some photos of the beautifully painted fishing boats, so we approached a group of fisherman who were gathered around a cooking fire and asked permission to to explore their grounded water craft. They very kindly invited us to join in their lunch - which we declined with a smile - and then created space for us to walk past their fire to the boats. I got some great shots while and one gentleman struck up a conversation with my daughter - and she captured one of a beautiful cat who was probably hoping to score some fresh fish.
Ready to head home, we called for a car to take us to N'Ice Cream - a delightful gelataria back on the Plateau - and picked up a sweet, cold treat to enjoy before walking home through the busy streets.
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